How To Paint Plastic Trim

Everything you may need to paint your plastic trim

• Special masking tape for curves 
• Regular masking tape for straight lines   
• Pre-taped painter’s plastic to cover the adjacent areas
• Plastic razor blade scraper to push the tape in place
• Sandpaper to remove the old paint and prep the surface
• Scuff pads for a smooth finish
• Large trash bags
• Isopropanol to degrease the surface
• Microfiber towels
• Special plastic paint, preferably paint and primer in one

Right, let’s get crackin’:

Here’s how to paint plastic trim in 7 easy steps

Step 1: Tape off the edges of the plastic part you want to paint 

First, you need to tape around the edges of the plastic parts you want to paint. 

For curved lines, use curved painter’s tape for best results. Hold the roll of tape as close to the edge as possible with one hand. Use your other hand to adjust and stick the tape in place. This technique makes it easier to follow the edge in one go. 

You want to make sure the tape touches the edge of the plastic trim or slightly overlaps the plastic part rather than not reaching the edge. Don’t worry about the edges being perfect at this point. 

When you’re done taping off the curved edges, push the tape back with a plastic scraper where needed and firmly press it in place, making sure it follows the edges perfectly. The aim is to create a smooth, clean edge. This is crucial to get professional looking results.

Next step is to tape off the straight edges with regular painter’s tape to prepare for the following step: sanding. 

When you’re done, double-check the edges and correct with your plastic scraper where needed to get a perfect edge.

At this point, you only need to tape around the edges to protect your car’s  bodywork against scratches during the next step: sanding. Don’t cover your car in pre-taped plastic yet, because the dust from sanding will otherwise stick to the plastic and fall in your wet paint afterwards.

Step 2:  Sand the plastic parts to remove all previous paint

You want to sand the plastic parts thoroughly and make sure you remove all previous paint. The difference between the spots with and without old paint underneath will otherwise show through the new paint. 

When you’re done evening everything out, finish with a scuff pad to remove the biggest sanding scratches and smoothen the surface. Remember, if you can feel the imperfection with your bare hand, you’ll definitely be able to see it through the paint, and you don’t want that.

Step 3: Cover the adjacent area in painters plastic to avoid getting overspray 

When you’re done sanding, cover the adjacent area in painter’s plastic to avoid getting overspray on parts that you don’t want to paint. 

Because the painter’s plastic’s tape sticks best to the car paint, it’s better to stick it right next to the existing taped edge instead of over it. Finish by covering the space between the two tapes with a third tape. 

Although this may seem like extra work, it’s crucial that the tape holds firmly during the entire painting process, so it doesn’t ruin your paint job.  

Now open the folded painter’s plastic and stick it to the bodywork with some painter’s tape so the plastic can’t fall into the paint. Tape off any remaining spots of exposed bodywork and you’re done. 

To protect the wheels and tires from overspray, we like to use large trash bags. Cut the trash bag open on one side, fold it over and around the wheel and tire and tuck it firmly underneath. Repeat this process for all 4 tires.

Step 4: Degrease the surface with isopropanol

Now, the last thing to do before painting is to degrease the surface. It’s best to use a microfiber towel. It’s important that the towel you use does not shed fibers, because this would ruin your paint job. Pour some isopropanol on the towel and degrease the plastic parts. Make sure everything is degreased thoroughly, otherwise the paint won’t stick properly. 

Step 5: Spray paint the first coat 

When spray painting, you should generally maintain a distance of 8 to 12 inches between the spray can or gun and the surface and move in smooth back-and-forth motions making sure everything gets an even coat. 

The first coat should be thin and does not need to fully conceal the surface. It’s just as a base for the rest of the coats to cling to, so don’t worry if the old color underneath still shines through. Follow the manufacturers’ instructions for the correct spraying distance and the drying time between coats. 

Step 6: Spray paint the next coats

Contrary to the first thin layer, when applying the next coats, you want to always achieve full coverage without applying the paint too thick. Be patient and work in multiple thin layers. Respect the correct drying times between coats. By applying too much paint at once trying to cut corners, you run the risk that the paint will start running or dripping, and ruin the result. Remember, you can always apply an extra coat, but if the paint starts running you have to start all over again.

Step 7: Take off the tape

The last thing to do, and arguably the most satisfying, is to gently peel off the tape. You want to do this while the paint is dry to the touch but not fully hardened yet. If you wait too long, the hard paint edges might tear and flake off and you don’t want that to happen.

Before:

After:

Now take a look at that difference! Satisfying, isn’t it?

With only some simple tools, the right paint and a little elbow grease, you can transform old, scruffy fenders into brand new ones. That’s all there is to it. 

Happy cruisin’!